Sunday, March 11, 2007

Headed to Peru

Off to Peru in the morning.

Chris has been here for 4 days, and we´ve consumed enough meat for my arteries to board the Pain Train. Luckily we´ve diluted this with wine and gelato, thus completing our south american heath regeme.

I keep contemplating a move down here for a year or so sometime in the near future. Argentina is at a high point right now; thinking is pretty positive, the economy is growing, there is art everywhere. As I understand Argentine history, it could slide back down at any moment. So people here are really enjoying it. At least the upper classes are. Much of the country´s huge middle class slid into poverty after the 2002 collapse. It seems schizophrenic right now-- in touristy areas rents are comprable to los angeles, while one neighborhood away priced drop by a third. one more, they fall off the shelf. So you have inflation rocketing up at various speeds depending on location. The price shifting is similar to eastern europe 10 years ago, I imagine.

What this opens up for an artist is the opportunity to set up a great studio a bit outside the main areas, and have a great working situation. Cost of living is low compared to quality of life.

more to come
miss you all
kenito

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Tango

I have been taking a large humility pill call Tango.

It is a dance that does not reward the bold. No, it is a subtle dance, which above all is about connection and being present. My realization that years are what is required to gain a descent understanding of the dance has made me attempt to reassess the "work vs. reward" equations in my head. In the end, because it is so subtle and requires such attention, it is a perfect practice like yoga or meditation. Yet your attention and energy must be directed at another person, who is sensitive to your every shift and move.

I know basically nothing, yet it is fun learning with all the rest of the crowd of foreigners (and locals) who've come to try.

There are milongas all over the city, day and night. I have never seen a dance community so active.

off to class..

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

The Shift

I woke up this afternoon, on my back, staring up at a cobalt sky speckled with clouds.

As I laid there I felt the shift, that one we yearn for when taking a 'vacation'. That is that feeling of being relaxed, of finally being present and letting what had stressed you out pass. It is from this place you can build energy for what is to come.

I suppose this is obvious to most, but over the past few years it seems more elusive for me. That final release.

I sat up. I was on the top of a 20 story building, on a small sundeck with a small pool there. I was with a friend, drinking mate and listening to music. The bleached concrete highrises of Buenos Aires stretched out in all 3 directions, the 4th being the grayish brown expanse of the Rio de Plata beyond the Polo Fields. A simple but perfect way to pass an afternoon. I had been taking photos of the skyline, and talking with my friend about personal spiritual evolution which seems to be on everyone's mind.

But it was that nap, and waking up totally present to the sky, that was the shift I had been waiting for.

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Warm Nights in Buenos Aires

My first log from Buenos Aires. I have been here about a week. It is not the sights that are great here, it is the lifestyle. I lucked out in that my friend I'm staying with, Ariel, is a fantastic tour guide-- we have been all over the city. It is mostly a tour of daily life and great nights with friends.

As I write this there is a downpour outside that, if it keeps up, might just drown the city. I lost both flip flops crossing the street/small river. I guess it is not uncommon, and it can grind Buenos Aires to a halt.

Easy to fall in love with this city visually. At times it looks just like Paris, other times it has a different feel-- a mix of a Spanish colonial city in the americas and modern european architecture. Add in a bit of chaotic traffic, more advertisements, and that unquantifiable energy emanating from a big city, and you got BA. My favorite places are these one story colonial houses; with a courtyard, a garage entrance, with architectural details on the facade. The blocks are pretty short-- great for walking.

My days consist of cafe, draw or take some photos, Tango class, maybe a yoga class, and some shenanigans in the evening....

Ariel, a coffee person like myself has steered me clear of the many bad cafes in BA, and we go to Establicimiento General de Cafe. Ariel assures me there are no espressos better. It is pretty good, I must say. Across the street is an empanada place that is pretty much perfect. I'm beginning to have a Pavlovian need for this empanada daily.

I've been wandering through Recoleta cemetery a lot. Those familiar with BA know it, those not so familiar may not-- it is the famous cemetery where many important Argentinos are buried, like Evita Peron, etc. What amazes me is that it is laid out like a city, but the buildings are all mausoleums. They look like a micro urban landscapes.. of death. I'm fascinated. The roofline has little peaks, crosses, Marias, St michaels, angels, busts... all slowly decaying. And it is all in the middle of a neighborhood surrounded by apartment buildings, a bit like Central Park with the skyline looming behind.

I've been taking tango classes at a traditional place called El Beso. The dance is so difficult, I'm not sure how to explain. All my intuitive understanding of dance means nothing. Nada. It is beautiful, and I like it-- is about an intense connection between the partners. I need many private lessons to know how to really even start dancing. But there are many visitors and beginners here. So I don't feel alone. In fact, there is quite a strong community at all levels. And because it is so inexpensive, there are tons of people here for long durations.. 4 months, 6, a year. you can sublet your place in new york, come here and save money.

I've been doing a yoga class a couple times a week.. very relaxing. my physical shape is not rock solid, so doing some balancing like yoga on this trip is great. Ari has a private class that i tag along on.. it is a great open studio, with one sliding glass wall, letting in the twilight skyline.

The nights have consisted of dinners with Ari's friends, an Asado (barbeque) at the casa of our tango teachers' place, an open air percussion performance, different Milongas (tango dance parties). Usually there is a helado (italian style ice cream) stop, as well as an interesting bar. People stay out late here.. I have not been home before 2 am since I've been here.


I have been drawing some.. in cafes, tango milongas, and some other doodles; taking lots of photos. But i can feel my brain wrapping itself around new ways of attacking the canvases when I return. To step away from the studio may be the best thing for me at this point.

miss you all,

Kenny