Warm Nights in Buenos Aires

My first log from Buenos Aires. I have been here about a week. It is not the sights that are great here, it is the lifestyle. I lucked out in that my friend I'm staying with, Ariel, is a fantastic tour guide-- we have been all over the city. It is mostly a tour of daily life and great nights with friends.

As I write this there is a downpour outside that, if it keeps up, might just drown the city. I lost both flip flops crossing the street/small river. I guess it is not uncommon, and it can grind Buenos Aires to a halt.

Easy to fall in love with this city visually. At times it looks just like Paris, other times it has a different feel-- a mix of a Spanish colonial city in the americas and modern european architecture. Add in a bit of chaotic traffic, more advertisements, and that unquantifiable energy emanating from a big city, and you got BA. My favorite places are these one story colonial houses; with a courtyard, a garage entrance, with architectural details on the facade. The blocks are pretty short-- great for walking.

My days consist of cafe, draw or take some photos, Tango class, maybe a yoga class, and some shenanigans in the evening....

Ariel, a coffee person like myself has steered me clear of the many bad cafes in BA, and we go to Establicimiento General de Cafe. Ariel assures me there are no espressos better. It is pretty good, I must say. Across the street is an empanada place that is pretty much perfect. I'm beginning to have a Pavlovian need for this empanada daily.

I've been wandering through Recoleta cemetery a lot. Those familiar with BA know it, those not so familiar may not-- it is the famous cemetery where many important Argentinos are buried, like Evita Peron, etc. What amazes me is that it is laid out like a city, but the buildings are all mausoleums. They look like a micro urban landscapes.. of death. I'm fascinated. The roofline has little peaks, crosses, Marias, St michaels, angels, busts... all slowly decaying. And it is all in the middle of a neighborhood surrounded by apartment buildings, a bit like Central Park with the skyline looming behind.

I've been taking tango classes at a traditional place called El Beso. The dance is so difficult, I'm not sure how to explain. All my intuitive understanding of dance means nothing. Nada. It is beautiful, and I like it-- is about an intense connection between the partners. I need many private lessons to know how to really even start dancing. But there are many visitors and beginners here. So I don't feel alone. In fact, there is quite a strong community at all levels. And because it is so inexpensive, there are tons of people here for long durations.. 4 months, 6, a year. you can sublet your place in new york, come here and save money.

I've been doing a yoga class a couple times a week.. very relaxing. my physical shape is not rock solid, so doing some balancing like yoga on this trip is great. Ari has a private class that i tag along on.. it is a great open studio, with one sliding glass wall, letting in the twilight skyline.

The nights have consisted of dinners with Ari's friends, an Asado (barbeque) at the casa of our tango teachers' place, an open air percussion performance, different Milongas (tango dance parties). Usually there is a helado (italian style ice cream) stop, as well as an interesting bar. People stay out late here.. I have not been home before 2 am since I've been here.


I have been drawing some.. in cafes, tango milongas, and some other doodles; taking lots of photos. But i can feel my brain wrapping itself around new ways of attacking the canvases when I return. To step away from the studio may be the best thing for me at this point.

miss you all,

Kenny