I'm back in Venice painting. hope to see all you soon.
Venice Art Walk is coming May 20-- 11:30-4:30.
Ciao!
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Chile and the return to Buenos Aires
Last log for South America.
I’ve been back for a week or two, finally filling in the last gaps: Chile and my final days in Buenos Aires.
After we left Cusco, we spent a layover day in Lima—bumming around Miraflores, an upscale neighborhood by the ocean (looked like a nice beach break, but dirty water). From there we took a brutal overnight flight to Santiago, rented a car and headed to the coast. My friends Evo and Lulu (artists I know from Venice Beach) invited us to their spot by the ocean north of ViƱa del Mar. We arrived and proceeded to eat delicious sea food and drink white wine day and night for 2 days. We swam around, explored tide pools, and generally enjoyed civilized living after being on the trail.
From there we spent a day in Valparaiso. Picture San Francisco if the gold rush had not happened—an important port, but not as developed.. lots of Victorian architecture, but not the Big City vibe. Hills dominate all around, quirky streets wind throughout. Colorful buildings are all dotted with grafiti—but amazing graffiti, which could only be the work of the local art students. I also fell in love with some of the rough and tumble architecture of the port bars.. one could picture sailors stumbling in on leave.
On our way to Santiago we passed through wine country for a tasting.. it looked just like Santa Barbara. Exactly. Maybe Napa. And the wine was great.
We hit Santiago at night time, and we headed to the flat of a friend of Evo’s. The wrap around balcony overlooked the fine arts museum, and we chilled there drinking and partying the night away. The city has a mix of European influence and chaos. I did not explore enough to really report on the vibe of the town, though we had a fantastic time with this crew of Chileans and other foreigners- talking of all things through the night. A late night danceclub, and an early morning panic over a missing bag rounded out the trip.
Back in Buenos Aires, Chris and I checked into a boutique hotel in San Telmo (a more bohemian, older barrio) and we really enjoyed it there. More dancing filled our time, as well as a River Plate soccer match. The soccer game was a big deal—River and Boca Juniors are the two big soccer clubs in Argentina, and the world for that matter. We missed seeing this rivalry, we just saw River and Gimnasia. Apparently a River/ Boca match is maybe the biggest rivalry in all of sports, if one can make such a comparison. Just seeing the River fans was awesome- non stop chants and songs for the whole time. They actually lost, which sobered the crowd at the end, but it was still one for the books. Our seats were really good, and it felt very safe in our section.
I have many ideas for paintings from this trip—but at this time I’d rather work than talk about them. Images will come about soon enough..
Kenny Harris
Venice, CA
I’ve been back for a week or two, finally filling in the last gaps: Chile and my final days in Buenos Aires.
After we left Cusco, we spent a layover day in Lima—bumming around Miraflores, an upscale neighborhood by the ocean (looked like a nice beach break, but dirty water). From there we took a brutal overnight flight to Santiago, rented a car and headed to the coast. My friends Evo and Lulu (artists I know from Venice Beach) invited us to their spot by the ocean north of ViƱa del Mar. We arrived and proceeded to eat delicious sea food and drink white wine day and night for 2 days. We swam around, explored tide pools, and generally enjoyed civilized living after being on the trail.
From there we spent a day in Valparaiso. Picture San Francisco if the gold rush had not happened—an important port, but not as developed.. lots of Victorian architecture, but not the Big City vibe. Hills dominate all around, quirky streets wind throughout. Colorful buildings are all dotted with grafiti—but amazing graffiti, which could only be the work of the local art students. I also fell in love with some of the rough and tumble architecture of the port bars.. one could picture sailors stumbling in on leave.
On our way to Santiago we passed through wine country for a tasting.. it looked just like Santa Barbara. Exactly. Maybe Napa. And the wine was great.
We hit Santiago at night time, and we headed to the flat of a friend of Evo’s. The wrap around balcony overlooked the fine arts museum, and we chilled there drinking and partying the night away. The city has a mix of European influence and chaos. I did not explore enough to really report on the vibe of the town, though we had a fantastic time with this crew of Chileans and other foreigners- talking of all things through the night. A late night danceclub, and an early morning panic over a missing bag rounded out the trip.
Back in Buenos Aires, Chris and I checked into a boutique hotel in San Telmo (a more bohemian, older barrio) and we really enjoyed it there. More dancing filled our time, as well as a River Plate soccer match. The soccer game was a big deal—River and Boca Juniors are the two big soccer clubs in Argentina, and the world for that matter. We missed seeing this rivalry, we just saw River and Gimnasia. Apparently a River/ Boca match is maybe the biggest rivalry in all of sports, if one can make such a comparison. Just seeing the River fans was awesome- non stop chants and songs for the whole time. They actually lost, which sobered the crowd at the end, but it was still one for the books. Our seats were really good, and it felt very safe in our section.
I have many ideas for paintings from this trip—but at this time I’d rather work than talk about them. Images will come about soon enough..
Kenny Harris
Venice, CA
Monday, April 2, 2007
Inca Trail
ok, I'm back in the US.
Am i cheating to write the blog now? for the first time in a while, i'm stationary-- I'm going to attempt to catch up on my notes from the road.
first off, the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. This has to be one of the great experiences one can have in this life. It is a 4 day hike through a stunning green valley, over 2 passes, leading to the city of Machu Picchu-- some of it actually following the old Inca road. it climbs some 1800 meters (5700ft), and is about 30 miles long. It is hard and amazing.
my cousin Nick had been living in Cusco, Peru for a couple months, so he was our local hook up, organizing the trip from the town. It is a very regulated process, with only 500 people total allowed on the trail per day. This includes porters, so the number of hikers is somewhere around 200. There is something like a passport control to enter the trail-- this protects the trail, and raises funds to maintain it. And one must be part of a guided group- no rogue backpackers. the support crews carry the tents, food, and sometimes your clothes/packs depending on the outfit. or, like chris and myself, hire an extra porter to carry your heavy stuff. we were not too proud. every night we'd arrive at camp with our tents set up, and they'd be working on dinner. With heavy packs the porters run ahead to set up, even after they'd stayed behind to clean up lunch. Ever chewing on coca leaves. They were pretty amazing.
Our crew was a ragtag group of nick's friends, mostly 19 year olds, so chris and i played the grandpas: popping advil like candy and not hesitating to upgrade to the 'extra porter' option. Most of the crew had some stomach illness issues- for a few it was a bad ceviche incident in Lima. As chris put it, Survivor Inca Trail. it was stomach russian Roulette-- who's going to be on the Pain Train today?? looks like Lizzy today.. oo, but there goes Robin. chris, nick and I were great, no worries. my stomach and knees held up, chris was still on penicillin from strep 2 weeks before so no bacteria had a chance in his system, and nick is apparently bulletproof. one girl, Abba had a bad stomach ache, was vomiting some. we thought it was altitude sickness. upon return to cusco, she was still vomiting but had been constipated for a week... can anyone diagnose this? ....... yup, Typhoid. she had typhoid, and had had it since returning from the amazon (5-10 day incubation). a tough girl, hiking the inca trail with a potentially fatal illness. (we took her to our hotel in cusco, where we got her a doctor and and IV, with a bomb of cipro to kill the typhoid. after we left she spent a few days in the hospital, she's ok now. pays to re-up those shots).
So to describe the experience... steep green mountains, either shrub or jungle covered, in and out of the mist, occasionally glimpsing the snow capped peaks all around... You pass through Glacier carved valleys, with inca ruins nestled in strategic places, lined with ancient terraced mountains that had been growing crops 500 years before. The ancient stone 'trail' was a feat of engineering-- occasionally passing through tunnels and diagonal cracks. The scenery shifts as you pass along rushing creeks, with jungle all around, and the old path weaving through overhanging foliage. Drizzle and mist followed us through the last 2 days, adding a haunting element to the ancient valleys.
On the final day, everyone wakes well before dawn. Lined up in the rain at 5:30, we pass the control point and start the silent march to Machu Picchu. Though the path is not too difficult, it is dark, and everyone is focused. Our legs are strong from the climbs of the past two days, and our elevation is lower; adrenaline is high. Our 3 days of expectation are coming to a head. The mist glows brighter as the sky is brightening above the clouds. No one is talking. we are wet. At last we reach a steep stair case (jokes of Gollum and the staircase flow) and we scale it with hands and feet, and at last we see pass through the sun-gate and see the city...
It was true elation we all felt. the city hangs impossibly with cliffs all around, surrounded by peaks and mountains. the mist was kind to us that day and we saw the city from the spot the sun does on the solstice, as it would shine directly into the sun temple. We laugh, and smile, then head down to the city to explore. it has to be the most incredible ruin i've seen in the americas; its combination of architecture and setting is an assault on the senses. I could write more, but one just has to experience it to understand.
Am i cheating to write the blog now? for the first time in a while, i'm stationary-- I'm going to attempt to catch up on my notes from the road.
first off, the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. This has to be one of the great experiences one can have in this life. It is a 4 day hike through a stunning green valley, over 2 passes, leading to the city of Machu Picchu-- some of it actually following the old Inca road. it climbs some 1800 meters (5700ft), and is about 30 miles long. It is hard and amazing.
my cousin Nick had been living in Cusco, Peru for a couple months, so he was our local hook up, organizing the trip from the town. It is a very regulated process, with only 500 people total allowed on the trail per day. This includes porters, so the number of hikers is somewhere around 200. There is something like a passport control to enter the trail-- this protects the trail, and raises funds to maintain it. And one must be part of a guided group- no rogue backpackers. the support crews carry the tents, food, and sometimes your clothes/packs depending on the outfit. or, like chris and myself, hire an extra porter to carry your heavy stuff. we were not too proud. every night we'd arrive at camp with our tents set up, and they'd be working on dinner. With heavy packs the porters run ahead to set up, even after they'd stayed behind to clean up lunch. Ever chewing on coca leaves. They were pretty amazing.
Our crew was a ragtag group of nick's friends, mostly 19 year olds, so chris and i played the grandpas: popping advil like candy and not hesitating to upgrade to the 'extra porter' option. Most of the crew had some stomach illness issues- for a few it was a bad ceviche incident in Lima. As chris put it, Survivor Inca Trail. it was stomach russian Roulette-- who's going to be on the Pain Train today?? looks like Lizzy today.. oo, but there goes Robin. chris, nick and I were great, no worries. my stomach and knees held up, chris was still on penicillin from strep 2 weeks before so no bacteria had a chance in his system, and nick is apparently bulletproof. one girl, Abba had a bad stomach ache, was vomiting some. we thought it was altitude sickness. upon return to cusco, she was still vomiting but had been constipated for a week... can anyone diagnose this? ....... yup, Typhoid. she had typhoid, and had had it since returning from the amazon (5-10 day incubation). a tough girl, hiking the inca trail with a potentially fatal illness. (we took her to our hotel in cusco, where we got her a doctor and and IV, with a bomb of cipro to kill the typhoid. after we left she spent a few days in the hospital, she's ok now. pays to re-up those shots).
So to describe the experience... steep green mountains, either shrub or jungle covered, in and out of the mist, occasionally glimpsing the snow capped peaks all around... You pass through Glacier carved valleys, with inca ruins nestled in strategic places, lined with ancient terraced mountains that had been growing crops 500 years before. The ancient stone 'trail' was a feat of engineering-- occasionally passing through tunnels and diagonal cracks. The scenery shifts as you pass along rushing creeks, with jungle all around, and the old path weaving through overhanging foliage. Drizzle and mist followed us through the last 2 days, adding a haunting element to the ancient valleys.
On the final day, everyone wakes well before dawn. Lined up in the rain at 5:30, we pass the control point and start the silent march to Machu Picchu. Though the path is not too difficult, it is dark, and everyone is focused. Our legs are strong from the climbs of the past two days, and our elevation is lower; adrenaline is high. Our 3 days of expectation are coming to a head. The mist glows brighter as the sky is brightening above the clouds. No one is talking. we are wet. At last we reach a steep stair case (jokes of Gollum and the staircase flow) and we scale it with hands and feet, and at last we see pass through the sun-gate and see the city...
It was true elation we all felt. the city hangs impossibly with cliffs all around, surrounded by peaks and mountains. the mist was kind to us that day and we saw the city from the spot the sun does on the solstice, as it would shine directly into the sun temple. We laugh, and smile, then head down to the city to explore. it has to be the most incredible ruin i've seen in the americas; its combination of architecture and setting is an assault on the senses. I could write more, but one just has to experience it to understand.
Sunday, March 11, 2007
Headed to Peru
Off to Peru in the morning.
Chris has been here for 4 days, and we´ve consumed enough meat for my arteries to board the Pain Train. Luckily we´ve diluted this with wine and gelato, thus completing our south american heath regeme.
I keep contemplating a move down here for a year or so sometime in the near future. Argentina is at a high point right now; thinking is pretty positive, the economy is growing, there is art everywhere. As I understand Argentine history, it could slide back down at any moment. So people here are really enjoying it. At least the upper classes are. Much of the country´s huge middle class slid into poverty after the 2002 collapse. It seems schizophrenic right now-- in touristy areas rents are comprable to los angeles, while one neighborhood away priced drop by a third. one more, they fall off the shelf. So you have inflation rocketing up at various speeds depending on location. The price shifting is similar to eastern europe 10 years ago, I imagine.
What this opens up for an artist is the opportunity to set up a great studio a bit outside the main areas, and have a great working situation. Cost of living is low compared to quality of life.
more to come
miss you all
kenito
Chris has been here for 4 days, and we´ve consumed enough meat for my arteries to board the Pain Train. Luckily we´ve diluted this with wine and gelato, thus completing our south american heath regeme.
I keep contemplating a move down here for a year or so sometime in the near future. Argentina is at a high point right now; thinking is pretty positive, the economy is growing, there is art everywhere. As I understand Argentine history, it could slide back down at any moment. So people here are really enjoying it. At least the upper classes are. Much of the country´s huge middle class slid into poverty after the 2002 collapse. It seems schizophrenic right now-- in touristy areas rents are comprable to los angeles, while one neighborhood away priced drop by a third. one more, they fall off the shelf. So you have inflation rocketing up at various speeds depending on location. The price shifting is similar to eastern europe 10 years ago, I imagine.
What this opens up for an artist is the opportunity to set up a great studio a bit outside the main areas, and have a great working situation. Cost of living is low compared to quality of life.
more to come
miss you all
kenito
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Tango
I have been taking a large humility pill call Tango.
It is a dance that does not reward the bold. No, it is a subtle dance, which above all is about connection and being present. My realization that years are what is required to gain a descent understanding of the dance has made me attempt to reassess the "work vs. reward" equations in my head. In the end, because it is so subtle and requires such attention, it is a perfect practice like yoga or meditation. Yet your attention and energy must be directed at another person, who is sensitive to your every shift and move.
I know basically nothing, yet it is fun learning with all the rest of the crowd of foreigners (and locals) who've come to try.
There are milongas all over the city, day and night. I have never seen a dance community so active.
off to class..
It is a dance that does not reward the bold. No, it is a subtle dance, which above all is about connection and being present. My realization that years are what is required to gain a descent understanding of the dance has made me attempt to reassess the "work vs. reward" equations in my head. In the end, because it is so subtle and requires such attention, it is a perfect practice like yoga or meditation. Yet your attention and energy must be directed at another person, who is sensitive to your every shift and move.
I know basically nothing, yet it is fun learning with all the rest of the crowd of foreigners (and locals) who've come to try.
There are milongas all over the city, day and night. I have never seen a dance community so active.
off to class..
Tuesday, March 6, 2007
The Shift
I woke up this afternoon, on my back, staring up at a cobalt sky speckled with clouds.
As I laid there I felt the shift, that one we yearn for when taking a 'vacation'. That is that feeling of being relaxed, of finally being present and letting what had stressed you out pass. It is from this place you can build energy for what is to come.
I suppose this is obvious to most, but over the past few years it seems more elusive for me. That final release.
I sat up. I was on the top of a 20 story building, on a small sundeck with a small pool there. I was with a friend, drinking mate and listening to music. The bleached concrete highrises of Buenos Aires stretched out in all 3 directions, the 4th being the grayish brown expanse of the Rio de Plata beyond the Polo Fields. A simple but perfect way to pass an afternoon. I had been taking photos of the skyline, and talking with my friend about personal spiritual evolution which seems to be on everyone's mind.
But it was that nap, and waking up totally present to the sky, that was the shift I had been waiting for.
As I laid there I felt the shift, that one we yearn for when taking a 'vacation'. That is that feeling of being relaxed, of finally being present and letting what had stressed you out pass. It is from this place you can build energy for what is to come.
I suppose this is obvious to most, but over the past few years it seems more elusive for me. That final release.
I sat up. I was on the top of a 20 story building, on a small sundeck with a small pool there. I was with a friend, drinking mate and listening to music. The bleached concrete highrises of Buenos Aires stretched out in all 3 directions, the 4th being the grayish brown expanse of the Rio de Plata beyond the Polo Fields. A simple but perfect way to pass an afternoon. I had been taking photos of the skyline, and talking with my friend about personal spiritual evolution which seems to be on everyone's mind.
But it was that nap, and waking up totally present to the sky, that was the shift I had been waiting for.
Thursday, March 1, 2007
Warm Nights in Buenos Aires
My first log from Buenos Aires. I have been here about a week. It is not the sights that are great here, it is the lifestyle. I lucked out in that my friend I'm staying with, Ariel, is a fantastic tour guide-- we have been all over the city. It is mostly a tour of daily life and great nights with friends.
As I write this there is a downpour outside that, if it keeps up, might just drown the city. I lost both flip flops crossing the street/small river. I guess it is not uncommon, and it can grind Buenos Aires to a halt.
Easy to fall in love with this city visually. At times it looks just like Paris, other times it has a different feel-- a mix of a Spanish colonial city in the americas and modern european architecture. Add in a bit of chaotic traffic, more advertisements, and that unquantifiable energy emanating from a big city, and you got BA. My favorite places are these one story colonial houses; with a courtyard, a garage entrance, with architectural details on the facade. The blocks are pretty short-- great for walking.
My days consist of cafe, draw or take some photos, Tango class, maybe a yoga class, and some shenanigans in the evening....
Ariel, a coffee person like myself has steered me clear of the many bad cafes in BA, and we go to Establicimiento General de Cafe. Ariel assures me there are no espressos better. It is pretty good, I must say. Across the street is an empanada place that is pretty much perfect. I'm beginning to have a Pavlovian need for this empanada daily.
I've been wandering through Recoleta cemetery a lot. Those familiar with BA know it, those not so familiar may not-- it is the famous cemetery where many important Argentinos are buried, like Evita Peron, etc. What amazes me is that it is laid out like a city, but the buildings are all mausoleums. They look like a micro urban landscapes.. of death. I'm fascinated. The roofline has little peaks, crosses, Marias, St michaels, angels, busts... all slowly decaying. And it is all in the middle of a neighborhood surrounded by apartment buildings, a bit like Central Park with the skyline looming behind.
I've been taking tango classes at a traditional place called El Beso. The dance is so difficult, I'm not sure how to explain. All my intuitive understanding of dance means nothing. Nada. It is beautiful, and I like it-- is about an intense connection between the partners. I need many private lessons to know how to really even start dancing. But there are many visitors and beginners here. So I don't feel alone. In fact, there is quite a strong community at all levels. And because it is so inexpensive, there are tons of people here for long durations.. 4 months, 6, a year. you can sublet your place in new york, come here and save money.
I've been doing a yoga class a couple times a week.. very relaxing. my physical shape is not rock solid, so doing some balancing like yoga on this trip is great. Ari has a private class that i tag along on.. it is a great open studio, with one sliding glass wall, letting in the twilight skyline.
The nights have consisted of dinners with Ari's friends, an Asado (barbeque) at the casa of our tango teachers' place, an open air percussion performance, different Milongas (tango dance parties). Usually there is a helado (italian style ice cream) stop, as well as an interesting bar. People stay out late here.. I have not been home before 2 am since I've been here.
I have been drawing some.. in cafes, tango milongas, and some other doodles; taking lots of photos. But i can feel my brain wrapping itself around new ways of attacking the canvases when I return. To step away from the studio may be the best thing for me at this point.
miss you all,
Kenny
As I write this there is a downpour outside that, if it keeps up, might just drown the city. I lost both flip flops crossing the street/small river. I guess it is not uncommon, and it can grind Buenos Aires to a halt.
Easy to fall in love with this city visually. At times it looks just like Paris, other times it has a different feel-- a mix of a Spanish colonial city in the americas and modern european architecture. Add in a bit of chaotic traffic, more advertisements, and that unquantifiable energy emanating from a big city, and you got BA. My favorite places are these one story colonial houses; with a courtyard, a garage entrance, with architectural details on the facade. The blocks are pretty short-- great for walking.
My days consist of cafe, draw or take some photos, Tango class, maybe a yoga class, and some shenanigans in the evening....
Ariel, a coffee person like myself has steered me clear of the many bad cafes in BA, and we go to Establicimiento General de Cafe. Ariel assures me there are no espressos better. It is pretty good, I must say. Across the street is an empanada place that is pretty much perfect. I'm beginning to have a Pavlovian need for this empanada daily.
I've been wandering through Recoleta cemetery a lot. Those familiar with BA know it, those not so familiar may not-- it is the famous cemetery where many important Argentinos are buried, like Evita Peron, etc. What amazes me is that it is laid out like a city, but the buildings are all mausoleums. They look like a micro urban landscapes.. of death. I'm fascinated. The roofline has little peaks, crosses, Marias, St michaels, angels, busts... all slowly decaying. And it is all in the middle of a neighborhood surrounded by apartment buildings, a bit like Central Park with the skyline looming behind.
I've been taking tango classes at a traditional place called El Beso. The dance is so difficult, I'm not sure how to explain. All my intuitive understanding of dance means nothing. Nada. It is beautiful, and I like it-- is about an intense connection between the partners. I need many private lessons to know how to really even start dancing. But there are many visitors and beginners here. So I don't feel alone. In fact, there is quite a strong community at all levels. And because it is so inexpensive, there are tons of people here for long durations.. 4 months, 6, a year. you can sublet your place in new york, come here and save money.
I've been doing a yoga class a couple times a week.. very relaxing. my physical shape is not rock solid, so doing some balancing like yoga on this trip is great. Ari has a private class that i tag along on.. it is a great open studio, with one sliding glass wall, letting in the twilight skyline.
The nights have consisted of dinners with Ari's friends, an Asado (barbeque) at the casa of our tango teachers' place, an open air percussion performance, different Milongas (tango dance parties). Usually there is a helado (italian style ice cream) stop, as well as an interesting bar. People stay out late here.. I have not been home before 2 am since I've been here.
I have been drawing some.. in cafes, tango milongas, and some other doodles; taking lots of photos. But i can feel my brain wrapping itself around new ways of attacking the canvases when I return. To step away from the studio may be the best thing for me at this point.
miss you all,
Kenny
Monday, February 19, 2007
Ready for Departure: Bueno Aires
Getting ready to hit it.
check back here for war stories from the road.
Looking forward to relaxing my mind and letting go.. letting in new inspiration.
much love to you all
Kenny
check back here for war stories from the road.
Looking forward to relaxing my mind and letting go.. letting in new inspiration.
much love to you all
Kenny
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